Build History 3 December 21 to 2021 to May 30 2022

 Another Two weeks have passed and may more hours as usual. I fitted the hand break with the cable arriving from FlexibleDrive. Who did a great job making the cables to size. We set up the MoTeC to pull the cable until a low ampage was reached. However my cheap American actuator, that was sold as a hand break actuator, pulled its self to pieces in its first attempt. I have been using linier actuators from Motion Dynamics in the past for all sorts of uses. So one has been ordered and the previous actuator put in the bin. When I get that working I will post a video. Let's hope it works.
With the bulk of the wiring completed, Oh I still have the wing mirrors to do, I have been checking out the programming of the MoTeC and testing, with much help from Glen. You will see a little video of a typical instance with the indicator well on the way to working. You need to be aware that the self canceling stalk operated system will not fit in the GT40, and having experience with toggle switched indicators in a MK I sprite. I found that they were often left on, flashing as I merrily drive straight with an indicator flashing. So the MoTeC's ability to sing and dance was bought into action. The indicator has flashing buttons on the dash and behind the dash small  programmable buzzer. I have four behind the dash, one for the indicators and three more that will be programed to suit the warning they will transmit. These can be obtained off eBay "Programmable warning buzzer". I have not set up the steering angle sensor that will work the self canceling of the indicators. I have also programed them to switch off after 3 minutes of flashing.
Two repairs. The light switch had an issue that when I selected O the Drive lights came on, and the two LED's in the hand break selector I burnt out. So both devices needed rearing or modifying.
Tim came over to start to get the Tesla working, but no joy, may be this week.
I said that the bulk of the wiring was done, but the wing mirrors are yet to be installed. There are about 20 wires to come into the doors! The list of things a wing mirror has to do if you use a modern one.
Mirror Up, Down, Left, Right, Fold, (Each requires two wires and information to be sent from the joy stick to the opposite door.) Indicator, Demister, Proximity warning. Door open light, The GT40 also has a large storage area that will need a light. That is about 16 cables and I think there will be more. I have a nice little joy stick, for the mirrors, that has about 10 connection pins. I needed to test each combination to work out which pair send the message for only one function e.g. Left mirror UP. That took some time. I am now building the board that contains a number of mini solenoids to do the job. Let's see if I can get it working. 

As we had been in contact with our two grandsons age 3 and 6 months, who had COVID, we had to go into lockdown. This gave me more time to work on the car. Still wiring, wiring and more wiring. To give you an idea it took me all day to wire the map lights in the rear view mirror and the boot light. There were many holes drilled into the body to find a root for the power to reach to the lights and these are in the process of being glassed over then filled. I may be slow, but I have no instructions to follow as much of what I am doing is not standard. I also installed the front headlights. These are Hylux lights and they JUST fit, in the height dimension. One thing with the Hylux is that the beam adjustment is done by turning screws that are located on the front of the lamp. Of course the GT40 I have to adjust from the rear. So the two springs that pull the light in place allowing flexibility of movement when lining up the lights have been changed to push springs. The springs are not in place yet. I will wait for all of that once the car is on the ground and I have some basic idea where they need to move to.
In addition to the headlights I am well on the way to installing the turning lights. These light up when the car makes a tight turn to the right or left. There is a suggestion that I made to Lexus to improve their car, but they were not interested, so my GT40 will have that feature. You will see at the end of the build.
There are two fuel filling points on the right and left of the car, at the back of the bonnet. Obviously I will only have one filling point for electricity, so the drivers side hole is being filled with many layers of glass. To fill the hole I chamfered the edge of the hole on the  top and bottom. I then layer up one piece of woven glass to the underside, nice and tight, noting not to use resin on other than the edges. Once the resin had hardened I put resin on the rest of the glass. I then worked on the top, laying down about 6 - 8 layers of glass, then sanding down the edges. The following day, once the resin had been hardened,  another 6-8 layers of glass followed by sanding level, followed by a couple of weeks at the Phisyo to get my shoulder fixed.
I also installed the windscreen wiper motor, only to find that the air-conditioning unit needed to be lowered, so off to CadCut to have a new mounting bracket.
At last, it was time to fire up the MoTeC to see if the switches would control the lights. Unfortunately, not, so Glen from  Auto Sports Electronics came over for a day to check things out. After a day of tracking things down we were no better off, but I am sure that we will get there. It appears that there is a problem with the CANBus, but let's see.
One other development, I collected the hand break cable, that will link to the electrical actuator. That will be fun programming. 

Wiring continues With many hours of work, pretty much under the dash board, however about a week ago I reached a point where I could braid the wires. This entailed disconnecting many of the connections, taping them with a note of their original connection point  and then braiding the loom. Then of course reconnect all the wires back into place. The next job, once the front lights are wired will be to start testing all of the connections. The last 3 weeks felt as if there was little progress being achieved but in reality wiring does not show up as a big step forward.
The MoTeC steering angle sensor was installed and wired in place with the break pressure sensors, see photo.
There were two items that were installed on Saturday that made me feel as if I made a couple of leaps forward. These being the windscreen wiper motor, that took a bit of juggling about, with the wire harness blocking access. Yes I know it would have been better to have fitted it first but the parts took some time to arrive.
The other item fitted was the rear view mirror. I had a dilemma in that fitting interior lights in such a small cabin was not going to be easy. The first car that resolved this issue by installing the lights as part of the rear view mirror was the original Fiat 500. I obtained my mirror on EBay as a Mustang mirror.
When I work in the garage I usually have the door open not only to cool the environment but also to allow passing friends and visitors to have a chat. Last week I was working with my back to the door I herd a noise, on turning around I saw someone taking my mountain bike. I was too slow to get round the car and stop him. Anyway got some photos. 

 I have continued the last few weeks wiring the car, and this was only dash board. This may seam not a lot but I have found that a day is put aside to wire up a load of instruments only to find a couple are completed and not even tested. However it is looking as if the dash will be wired up by the end of next week. The next job will be to wire the outputs i.e. front lights, controls to the motor and then Test. Once completed and tested it will all come out and be wrapped into a harness.
Some things just go right. The two yellow buttons, that will be used to operate the indicators, by chance had internal lights that will be set up to flash when the indicators are on. I also found that my Forward, Neutral, Reverse selector had internal lights that light up the D,R,N.
I installed a MoTeC (Duel Half Bridge) whatever that means, but in principle it will send power to the linier actuator that operates the hand break, reversing the polarity where necessary. When I started to wire up the DHC I noted that my crimping tool was too small to crimp the male pins. On the basis that my tool was too small I contacted Glen at Auto Sports Electronics to see if he had a larger tool and sure he did. So I took my male pins and wires to Glen, he got out his stripper then using his larger tool did the job on my male pin.
It is good to know people who have large tools who can help.
In addition to the wiring I have also modified the dash to be able to install the radio, an item that is not standard in a Le Mans car.